Art of Freedom: The life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka

Voytek Kurtyka is one of the greatest alpinists of all time, known for his visionary approach to climbing and numerous renowned ascents, including the first alpine-style ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV. This long-awaited biography, Art of Freedom, provides a profound and moving profile of Kurtyka.

Format: Paperback / softback
Length: 320 pages
Publication date: 05 April 2018
Publisher: Vertebrate Publishing Ltd

Voytek Kurtyka, a renowned alpinist, has left an indelible mark on the world of mountaineering. Born in 1947, he was a pivotal figure during the Polish golden age of mountaineering, which revolutionized Himalayan climbing in the 1970s and 1980s. Kurtyka's visionary approach to climbing led to numerous groundbreaking ascents, including the complete traverse of Broad Peak, the remarkable 'night-naked speed climbs' of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, and the alpine-style first ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV, which is widely regarded as the 'climb of the century.' His partnership with Austrian Robert Schauer on the GIV route remains unmatched to this day.

Throughout his career, Kurtyka climbed alongside some of the most legendary alpine figures of his time. Polish Himalayan giant Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan, and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre were his frequent climbing partners. Despite numerous requests to accept the prestigious Piolets dOr lifetime achievement award, Kurtyka remained a fiercely private individual, declining countless invitations for interviews, lectures, and festival appearances. However, he has agreed to collaborate with internationally renowned and award-winning author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography, titled "Art of Freedom."

"Art of Freedom" offers a profound and captivating insight into the life and achievements of Voytek Kurtyka. The book delves into his early years, his passion for climbing, and the challenges he faced throughout his career. It also sheds light on his relationships with his climbing partners, the impact of his achievements on the climbing community, and his personal struggles and triumphs.

Kurtyka's approach to climbing was characterized by his unwavering determination, technical expertise, and a deep respect for the mountain environment. He believed in pushing the boundaries of what was possible and in finding new routes and techniques that had never been attempted before. His ascents on Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma are testament to his exceptional skill and bravery.

Despite his success, Kurtyka remained humble and grounded. He was known for his kindness and generosity towards his fellow climbers and for his commitment to conservation and environmental protection. He was a strong advocate for sustainable climbing practices and worked tirelessly to promote the responsible management of mountain ecosystems.

In conclusion, Voytek Kurtyka is one of the greatest alpinists of all time. His visionary approach to climbing, combined with his exceptional skill and bravery, has left an indelible mark on the world of mountaineering. "Art of Freedom" provides a captivating glimpse into the life and achievements of this remarkable mountaineer, offering a deeper understanding of his passion, dedication, and the impact he has had on the climbing community.

Weight: 434g
Dimension: 228 x 158 x 23 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9781911342526