At the Mercy of Their Clothes: Modernism, the Middlebrow, and British Garment Culture

The clothes we wear can tell a lot about us, reflecting our personal and national histories, wealth, status, aspirations, and morality. Celia Marshik's study "At the Mercy of Their Clothes" explores the agency of fashion in modern literature, its reflection of new relations between people and things, and its embodiment of a rapidly changing society confronted by war and cultural and economic upheaval. She focuses on four distinct categories of modern clothing: the evening gown, the mackintosh, the fancy dress costume, and secondhand attire, and how authors use these clothes to negotiate shifting gender roles, weigh the value of individuality during national conflict, work through mortality, and depict changing class structures. Marshik emphasizes the persistent animation of clothing and objectification of individuals in early-twentieth-century literature and society, arguing that while artists and intellectuals celebrated the ability of modern individuals to remake themselves, a range of literary works and popular publications points to a lingering anxiety about how political, social, and economic conditions continued to constrain the individual.

Format: Paperback / softback
Length: 264 pages
Publication date: 16 November 2021
Publisher: Columbia University Press

In the realm of modern fiction, clothing holds a profound significance, transcending mere attire to become an integral part of a character's identity. Garments, like time capsules, encapsulate personal and national histories, carrying the weight of wealth, status, aspiration, and morality. They serve as a visual cue, suggesting the characters' past and potential future, as well as their awareness of their fate.

In her captivating book, "At the Mercy of Their Clothes," Celia Marshik delves into the agency of fashion in modern literature, exploring its intricate relationship with the evolving dynamics between people and things. Through a meticulous examination of modernist and middlebrow works, coupled with a historical account of Britain in the early twentieth century, and the insights of thing theory, Marshik sheds light on the multifaceted role of clothing in shaping individuals and society.

Within the pages of this insightful study, Marshik categorizes four distinct categories of modern clothing: the evening gown, the mackintosh, the fancy dress costume, and secondhand attire. By closely analyzing the ways in which these garments are employed by authors, Marshik uncovers the profound negotiations that take place regarding shifting gender roles, the valuation of individuality amidst national conflict, the contemplation of mortality, and the depiction of changing class structures. Through dynamic comparisons that span a wide range of sources, including Joyce's "Ulysses," Punch cartoons, Vogue articles, and consumer letters, Marshik illuminates prevailing opinions about specific garments and a pervasive anxiety that people were merely defined by what they wore.

Throughout her readings, Marshik emphasizes the persistent animation of clothing and the objectification of individuals in early-twentieth-century literature and society. She challenges the notion that artists and intellectuals celebrated the ability of modern individuals to remake themselves, pointing instead to a lingering sense of discomfort that permeated various literary works and popular publications. Marshik's analysis offers a nuanced perspective, revealing the complex interplay between fashion, identity, and the broader social context of the time.

In conclusion, "At the Mercy of Their Clothes" is a thought-provoking exploration of the agency of fashion in modern literature. Through meticulous research and insightful analysis, Celia Marshik sheds light on the profound ways in which clothing shapes individuals, reflects societal changes, and contributes to the narrative of a rapidly evolving world. This book is a valuable addition to the field of literary studies, offering a fresh perspective on the enduring power of fashion and its impact on our understanding of identity and society.

Weight: 382g
Dimension: 152 x 227 x 19 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9780231175050