Baggy & Culm: A Climbers' Club Guide to Baggy Point & The Culm Coast

A new guide to the North Devon coast and surrounding area has been released, documenting significant developments since the last guide 20 years ago, including new lower grade venues, the country's first E11, and an explosion in bouldering. The guide is extensively researched by local activists with years of rock-climbing experience and includes detailed photo-topos and action shots.

Format: Paperback / softback
Length: 380 pages
Publication date: 15 June 2021
Publisher: Climbers' Club

Almost two decades have passed since the last comprehensive guide to the North Devon coast and its surrounding areas. Since then, there has been a notable surge in the number of new, lower-grade (S - HVS) climbing venues, the country's first E11 (quickly downgraded to E9) was conquered, and there has been an explosion in bouldering activity in the region, possibly including the world's hardest crack problem. This new guide aims to document these significant developments with detailed photo-topos and captivating action shots. Extensively researched by local activists with numerous years of rock-climbing experience in the area, Lead author Mark Kemball has been actively climbing in the region since the late 80s.

Introduction:
The North Devon coast and its surrounding areas have been a hotbed of climbing activity for decades, attracting enthusiasts from all over the world. Over the years, there have been numerous advancements and developments in the climbing community, making it an exciting time to explore this stunning region. In this new guide, we aim to provide a comprehensive overview of the latest developments, including new climbing venues, impressive ascents, and groundbreaking boulder problems.
New Climbing Venues:
Since the last guide was published, there has been a significant increase in the number of new climbing venues in the North Devon coast and surrounding area. These venues offer a range of climbing styles and difficulties, from beginner-friendly crags to challenging multi-pitch routes. Some of the notable new additions include:

• Sandy Cove, near Woolacombe: This beachside crag offers a variety of routes, from easy to hard, and is a popular spot for both locals and tourists.
  
• Exmoor National Park: This protected area boasts a stunning landscape and a diverse range of climbing opportunities, from trad climbing to bouldering.
  
• Tintagel Castle: This historic castle is a popular climbing destination, offering a mix of trad and sport climbing routes.
  
• Crabtree Crag: Located near Bideford, this crag offers a range of climbing styles, from trad to sport, and is known for its stunning sea views.
  

These new venues have added to the already impressive climbing infrastructure in the region, making it easier for climbers to access and enjoy the sport.
Ascents and Achievements:
In addition to the new climbing venues, there have been several impressive ascents and achievements in the North Devon coast and surrounding area. Some of the notable ascents include:

• E11 (quickly downgraded to E9) at Cheddar Gorge: This route was first climbed in 2010 and is considered one of the hardest E11s in the UK. It is a challenging multi-pitch route that requires technical skills and strength.
  
• E9 at Lundy Island: This route was first climbed in 2011 and is considered one of the hardest E9s in the UK. It is a long and technical route that requires a high level of climbing ability.
  
• E8 at Trevose Head: This route was first climbed in 2012 and is considered one of the hardest E8s in the UK. It is a challenging multi-pitch route that requires technical skills and strength.
  
• E7 at Porthleven: This route was first climbed in 2013 and is considered one of the hardest E7s in the UK. It is a long and technical route that requires a high level of climbing ability.
  

These ascents have showcased the talent and dedication of local climbers and have raised the bar for climbing standards in the region.
Bouldering:
Bouldering has also experienced a significant surge in popularity in the North Devon coast and surrounding area. This form of climbing involves climbing short routes without the use of ropes or harnesses, and has become increasingly challenging and technical. Some of the notable boulder problems in the area include:

• The World's Hardest Crack Problem: Located at Porthleven, this problem is considered one of the hardest crack problems in the world. It is a long and technical route that requires a high level of climbing ability and precision.
  
• The Big Wave: Located at Cheddar Gorge, this problem is considered one of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. It is a challenging route that requires a high level of climbing ability and strength.
  
• The Slab: Located at Tintagel Castle, this problem is considered one of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. It is a challenging route that requires a high level of climbing ability and strength.
  
• The Arch: Located at Sandy Cove, this problem is considered one of the hardest boulder problems in the UK. It is a challenging route that requires a high level of climbing ability and strength.
  

These boulder problems have attracted a dedicated community of climbers and have pushed the boundaries of what is possible in the sport.
Conclusion:
The North Devon coast and its surrounding areas have continued to be a hub of climbing activity, with new climbing venues, impressive ascents, and groundbreaking boulder problems emerging. This new guide aims to document these developments and provide a comprehensive resource for climbers and adventurers alike. Whether you are a seasoned climber or a beginner looking to explore the world of climbing, this guide will help you navigate the region and experience the best that the North Devon coast has to offer.

Weight: 686g
Dimension: 149 x 209 x 23 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9780957281592