Commerce, Food, and Identity in Seventeenth-Century England and France: Across the Channel

Jean Brillat-Savarin's challenge, "Tell me what you eat, and I'll tell you who you are," reflects the significance of food in revealing a person's identity. Champagne, associated with French sophistication and luxury, was invented by Dom Pérignon. In contrast, sweet tea is a quintessential English icon, representing empire, civility, and the demand for comfort in rainy weather. "Commerce, Food, and Identity in Seventeenth-Century England and France: Across the Channel" explores the relationship between food, national identity, and political economy in the early modern period, revealing how tastes developed through comparative and transnational analyses of wine, spices, cookbooks, coffeehouses, and cafés.

Format: Hardback
Length: 214 pages
Publication date: 27 July 2022
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press

“Tell me what you eat, and I'll tell you who you are” was the challenge issued by French gastronomist Jean Brillat-Savarin. Champagne is declared a unique emblem of French sophistication and luxury, linked to the myth of its invention by Dom Pérignon. Across the Channel, a cup of sweet tea is recognized as a quintessentially English icon, simultaneously conjuring images of empire, civility, and relentless rain that demands the sustenance and comfort that only tea can provide. How did these tastes develop in the seventeenth century?

Commerce, Food, and Identity in Seventeenth-Century England and France: Across the Channel offers a compelling historical narrative of the relationship between food, national identity, and political economy in the early modern period. These mutually influential relationships are revealed through comparative and transnational analyses of effervescent wine, spices and cookbooks, the development of coffeehouses and cafés, and the ‘national sweet tooth in England and France.

The book explores how the tastes and preferences of early modern Europeans were shaped by a complex web of cultural, social, and economic factors. It examines the role of commerce in the spread of new foods and culinary techniques, as well as the ways in which these changes impacted the social and political structures of both England and France.

One of the key themes of the book is the development of the concept of national identity through food. The authors argue that the consumption of certain foods was used to differentiate one group of people from another, and that this process played a significant role in the formation of national identities. For example, the consumption of effervescent wine in France was associated with the aristocracy, while the consumption of sweet tea in England was associated with the middle class and the imperial power.

The book also explores the role of food in the construction of gender and social hierarchies. The authors argue that the consumption of certain foods was used to reinforce gender roles and social hierarchies, and that this process played a significant role in the perpetuation of inequality and discrimination. For example, the consumption of meat was associated with masculinity and power, while the consumption of fruits and vegetables was associated with femininity and weakness.

Another key theme of the book is the development of the coffeehouse and café culture in England and France. The authors argue that these institutions were not just places to drink coffee and tea, but also spaces where people could gather, socialize, and exchange ideas. They played a significant role in the development of the Enlightenment and the rise of liberalism, and they helped to shape the political and social landscapes of both England and France.

The book also examines the ‘national sweet tooth in England and France. The authors argue that the consumption of sweet foods was not just a matter of taste, but also a reflection of the political and economic conditions of both countries. In England, the consumption of sweet foods was associated with the rise of the middle class and the industrial revolution, while in France, the consumption of sweet foods was associated with the aristocracy and the imperial power.

Overall, Commerce, Food, and Identity in Seventeenth-Century England and France: Across the Channel is a fascinating and insightful book that offers a new perspective on the relationship between food, national identity, and political economy in the early modern period. The authors use a range of sources and methodologies to explore these themes, and their work is both accessible and engaging. The book will be of interest to scholars and students of history, food studies, and cultural studies, as well as anyone who is interested in the history of taste and the development of modern Europe.

Dimension: 234 x 156 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9789463720175