Fashion, Society, and the First World War: International Perspectives

The book "Fashion, Society, and the First World War" explores the role of fashion in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918. It discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print, and material culture. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched and available on Bloomsbury Open Access.

Format: Paperback / softback
Length: 352 pages
Publication date: 17 November 2022
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing PLC

The historiography of the Great War has undergone a remarkable revival in recent years, yet the significant role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on a global scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely been overlooked. Fashion, Society, and the First World War seeks to rectify this gap by providing a comprehensive examination of the profound impact of the war on the functioning of the fashion industry in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways in which women and men navigated this novel world. Adopting an international, thematic approach, this volume is adorned with vibrant illustrations throughout and delves into the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reimagining of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print, and material culture. By analyzing a wealth of archival materials, visual chronicles, press reports, and garments, these captivating essays shed light on how fashion, even temporarily, played a crucial role in fostering the expression of identity, society, and nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War serves as an indispensable guide and a valuable starting point for researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

The fashion industry underwent a significant transformation during the First World War. Prior to the conflict, fashion was primarily focused on luxury and elegance, with designers and couturiers creating elaborate garments for the wealthy elite. However, as the war progressed, the focus shifted to practicality and functionality, with designers producing garments that were durable, easy to wear, and suitable for military use.

One of the most notable changes in fashion during the war was the introduction of uniforms. Soldiers were issued with standard-issue uniforms that were designed to be both practical and recognizable, with each branch of the military having its own distinct style. These uniforms not only helped to identify soldiers on the battlefield but also contributed to a sense of unity and camaraderie among the troops.

In addition to uniforms, women's fashion also underwent a significant transformation during the war. Women were encouraged to wear more practical and comfortable clothing, such as trousers and blouses, as they took on more active roles in the workforce and the military. This shift in fashion was also driven by the need for more affordable clothing, as the cost of luxury goods soared due to wartime shortages.

Men's fashion also changed during the war, with a greater emphasis on practicality and durability. Men's suits were replaced with more functional clothing, such as khaki uniforms and field jackets, and men's hairstyles were simplified to minimize the risk of injury in the field.

The war also had a significant impact on the global fashion industry. The closure of European fashion centers due to the conflict led to a shift in the center of fashion to the United States and Japan. American designers such as Coco Chanel and Calvin Klein emerged as leaders in the global fashion industry, creating styles that were both stylish and practical.

In conclusion, the First World War had a profound impact on the fashion industry, with designers producing garments that were both practical and functional. The introduction of uniforms, the shift towards more practical and comfortable clothing for women, and the emphasis on practicality and durability for men all contributed to a new sense of fashion and style during this period. The war also had a significant impact on the global fashion industry, with the closure of European fashion centers leading to a shift in the center of fashion to the United States and Japan.

Weight: 958g
Dimension: 189 x 247 x 31 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9781350231177