Ikat from Timor and its outer Islands: Insular and Interwoven

This is the first study to focus on ikat of the Timor region from a technical perspective, including microscopy and design analysis of asymmetry, an understudied subject. It reveals that asymmetry is highly interesting and requires extra work, with seven distinct ways to achieve it. On Sumba, women of the nobility made thrilling and amusing efforts to hide their virtuosity, dyeing into their mens cloths tiny visual devices, secret keys, which revealed that their work was not just good, but luar biasa.

Format: Paperback / softback
Length: 320 pages
Publication date: 28 July 2022
Publisher: Sidestone Press

This groundbreaking study delves into the intricate world of Timor region's ikat, exploring it from a technical perspective. Through meticulous microscopy and design analysis, the author uncovers the previously understudied subject of asymmetry, highlighting its paradoxical role in showcasing the human factor. The study focuses on the last century of the colonial period, providing a close-up glimpse into the weavers' decisions, allowing for rich insights into both materiality and creativity.

Asymmetry, a prevalent feature in the region, has largely been ignored, despite its intriguing nature. It challenges the technical dictates of ikat, which require the production of identical panels in parallel. Seven distinct methods of achieving asymmetry are identified, encompassing visual tricks, illusions, and displays of virtuosity. On Sumba, women of the nobility employed ingenious techniques to conceal their exceptional weaving skills, dyeing their mens cloths with tiny visual devices and secret keys that revealed their extraordinary craftsmanship.

Ironically, the late 19th- and early 20th-century dyers' mastery in hiding their virtuosity has led to its oversight by generations of researchers. To address this gap, the author takes up Marie Jeanne Adamss 1969 call for a deeper study of Indonesian ikat textiles through microscopy. Through thousands of micro-photographs, the author captures the development of yarn over time and differentiates 21 distinct weave types, far exceeding expectations. This extensive research spans 41 ikat weaving regions across the Indonesian archipelago.

In the final chapter, the author analyzes what may have driven the weavers of the region to create their intricate textiles. The study sheds light on the cultural, social, and economic factors that influenced their artistic expressions, contributing to a deeper understanding of Timor region's ikat and its place in the world of textiles.

Dimension: 280 x 210 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9789464280128