Kangchenjunga: The Himalayan giant

Kangchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, is a notoriously difficult and dangerous mountain to climb. It was first climbed from the west in 1955 by a British team and waited over twenty years for a second ascent. The third ascent, from the north, was made in 1979 by a four-man team including Doug Scott, who explored the mountain and its varied people before going on to look at Western approaches and early climbing attempts. Scotts' own relationship with the mountain began in 1978, and the team featured some of the greatest mountaineers in history. The book is a tribute to the sacred mountain and a paean for a Himalayan giant, written by a giant of Himalayan climbing.

Format: Hardback
Length: 288 pages
Publication date: 01 July 2021
Publisher: Vertebrate Graphics Ltd

Kangchenjunga, the majestic third-highest mountain in the world, stands as a formidable and treacherous peak that has challenged countless climbers throughout history. Its first ascent from the west in 1955 by a British team led by Joe Brown, George Band, Tony Streather, and Norman Hardie marked the beginning of a long journey for this formidable mountain. It took over twenty years for a second ascent to be accomplished, and when it finally happened in 1979, it was led by the visionary British alpinist Doug Scott.

Kangchenjunga, located on the border between Nepal and Sikkim in north-east India, holds a special place in Doug Scott's heart. In this captivating book, Scott delves into the mountain's history, culture, and the diverse people who call it home. He explores the mountain's terrain, highlighting its stunning beauty and the challenges it presents to climbers. Before delving into Western approaches and early climbing attempts, Scott takes readers on a journey to understand the mountain's significance in the local culture.

Kangchenjunga was once believed to be the highest mountain in the world, a title that was later claimed by Peak XV, known as Everest. Out of respect for the beliefs of the Sikkimese people, who consider the mountain sacred, no climber has ever set foot on its highest point, the revered summit. This adds an extra layer of mystery and allure to the mountain, making it an even more captivating destination for adventurers.

Doug Scott's relationship with Kangchenjunga began in 1978, three years after his first British ascent of Everest with Dougal Haston. The team assembled for this expedition was a testament to the greatness of mountaineering, featuring some of the most accomplished climbers of their time. Scott, Tasker, Boardman, and Georges Bettembourg were determined to conquer Kangchenjunga in a stripped-down expedition, with minimal Sherpa support and a largely self-financed approach. This was a groundbreaking endeavor, as it was the first time a mountain of this scale had been attempted by a new and challenging route without the use of oxygen.

The expedition unfolded in the spring of 1979, and the team's determination and skill paid off. On May 16, Scott, Tasker, and Boardman successfully summited Kangchenjunga, further cementing their legends in the golden era of mountaineering. Their achievement was a testament to the power of human determination and the indomitable spirit of adventure.

Kangchenjunga is Doug Scott's tribute to this sacred mountain, a paean for a Himalayan giant. Through his vivid storytelling and insightful observations, Scott invites readers to immerse themselves in the world of this magnificent peak. This book serves as a reminder of the awe-inspiring beauty and the challenges that nature presents, and it pays homage to the climbers who have dared to conquer its heights.

In conclusion, Kangchenjunga is a mountain that has captured the hearts and imaginations of climbers and adventurers alike. Doug Scott's book offers a unique perspective on this iconic peak, providing a deep understanding of its history, culture, and the incredible feats accomplished by climbers. Whether you are a seasoned mountaineer or a casual reader, this book is a must-read for anyone who seeks to explore the wonders of the Himalayan mountains.

Weight: 614g
Dimension: 164 x 241 x 29 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9781912560196