Livery Collar in Late Medieval England and Wales: Politics, Identity and Affinity

The livery collar was a prominent symbol of royal power in late-medieval England, worn by servants to denote service to a lord. This first book-length study explores its cultural and political significance, examining its meanings, political contexts, and distribution. It sheds new light on the nature and understanding of royal power at the time.

Format: Paperback / softback
Length: 264 pages
Publication date: 08 October 2021
Publisher: Boydell & Brewer Ltd

The livery collar, a prominent feature of late-medieval England, held a pervasive presence throughout the period. Worn around the neck to signify service to a lord, references to the collar abound in government records, contemporary chronicles, and correspondence, as well as in numerous depictions found in illuminated manuscripts and on church monuments. From the fifteenth century onwards, the livery collar emerged as a potent symbol of royal power, associating the wearer with the king. It also played a significant role in the construction and articulation of political and other group identities during this time.

This groundbreaking book-length study delves into the cultural and political significance of the livery collar, focusing on the period between 1450 and 1500, which is closely associated with the Wars of the Roses. It explores the various meanings bestowed upon the collar, examines its political contexts, and places it within the realm of medieval identity construction. Furthermore, the study investigates the motives behind its distribution, shedding new light on the nature and understanding of royal power during this era.

The livery collar, a symbol of loyalty and service, was a crucial element in the hierarchical structure of late-medieval society. It was worn by individuals who held positions of responsibility within a lord's household, such as servants, knights, and esquires. The collar not only distinguished these individuals from their peers but also served as a visible reminder of their allegiance to their lord.

The collar's design and materials varied depending on the social status and rank of the wearer. For example, servants wore simple collars made of cloth, while knights and esquires wore more elaborate collars adorned with jewels and embroidery. The color of the collar also played a significant role, with different colors indicating different levels of service. For instance, white collars were worn by the lowest-ranking servants, while black collars were reserved for the highest-ranking knights.

The livery collar was not only a symbol of status but also a means of enforcing social hierarchy. It was a powerful tool for the lord to control his servants and ensure their loyalty. The collar was also used to identify individuals within a lord's household, making it easier for the lord to manage his affairs and maintain order.

In addition to its practical functions, the livery collar also had cultural and symbolic significance. It was associated with the concept of honor and virtue, as individuals who wore the collar were seen as loyal and trustworthy servants of their lord. The collar was also seen as a symbol of the lord's power and authority, as it was a visible representation of his status and wealth.

The livery collar played a significant role in the political and social dynamics of late-medieval England. It was a powerful symbol of royal power and was used to enforce social hierarchy and control. The collar also played a role in the construction and articulation of political and other group identities, as it was a means of identifying individuals with a particular political or social affiliation.

The distribution of the livery collar was not uniform across all regions of late-medieval England. It was primarily worn by individuals in the upper classes, such as knights, esquires, and nobles. However, there were also instances of lower-class individuals wearing the collar, particularly in areas where the lord's influence was less significant.

The livery collar continued to be worn in some form until the early sixteenth century, although its significance had diminished by that time. The rise of the bourgeoisie and the decline of feudalism led to a shift in social structures and a decline in the importance of the livery collar.

In conclusion, the livery collar was a pervasive feature of late-medieval England, holding a significant place in the cultural, political, and social dynamics of the period. It was a powerful symbol of royal power, a means of enforcing social hierarchy, and a tool for the construction and articulation of political and other group identities. The study of the livery collar provides valuable insights into the nature and understanding of royal power at the time, shedding new light on the complex and multifaceted world of late-medieval society.

Weight: 594g
Dimension: 156 x 234 x 26 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9781783276370