Wonder Foods: The Science and Commerce of Nutrition

During 1850 and 1950, experts and entrepreneurs in Britain and the United States forged new connections between the nutrition sciences and the commercial realm, creating new food products that promised wondrous solutions for individual and social ills. Wonder Foods explores how these products dazzled with visions of modernity, efficiency, and scientific progress, but perpetuated exclusionary views about who deserved to eat, thrive, and live.

Format: Hardback
Length: 288 pages
Publication date: 27 December 2022
Publisher: University of California Press

Between 1850 and 1950, a remarkable synergy emerged between experts and entrepreneurs in Britain and the United States, driven by their fervent enthusiasm for novel edible consumables. This convergence led to the creation of a plethora of food products that promised wondrous solutions to both individual and societal challenges. By delving into creations such as Gail Borden's meat biscuit, Benger's Food, Kellogg's health foods, and Fleischmann's yeast, Wonder Foods offers a captivating exploration of how these new products dazzled with visions of modernity, efficiency, and scientific progress, all while perpetuating exclusionary views about who deserved to eat, thrive, and live.

Through extensive archival research, historian Lisa Haushofer unveils a profound truth: the story of modern food and nutrition was not merely about innocuous technological advances or superior scientific insights. Rather, it was intricately woven with the powerful logic of exploitation and economization that underpinned colonial and industrial food projects. These wonder foods not only shaped modern food regimes but also deeply influenced our collective understanding of food.

The emergence of these wonder foods during the mid-to-late 19th century marked a significant turning point in the history of food production and consumption. The industrial revolution, coupled with advancements in transportation and refrigeration, facilitated the widespread distribution of these products, reaching far-flung corners of the globe. The marketing strategies employed by companies such as Borden, Benger, Kellogg, and Fleischmann were instrumental in creating a sense of excitement and anticipation around their products, appealing to consumers' desires for convenience, health, and modernity.

However, beneath the surface of these seemingly miraculous creations lay a darker reality. The production of wonder foods was often driven by the exploitation of labor and resources, particularly in colonial territories. Workers were subjected to harsh working conditions, long hours, and low wages, while the natural environment was often devastated by the expansion of agricultural projects. The commodification of food, driven by profit motives, led to the marginalization of certain groups, such as women, minorities, and low-income individuals, who were unable to afford these luxury products.

Moreover, the wonder foods themselves were often far from healthy. Many of these products were heavily processed, containing high levels of sugar, salt, and artificial additives, which were linked to various health problems such as obesity, diabetes, and heart disease. The reliance on processed foods, rather than fresh, whole foods, contributed to a decline in nutritional quality and a shift towards a more sedentary lifestyle.

Despite these concerns, the popularity of wonder foods continued to grow throughout the 20th century. The rise of consumerism and the pursuit of a "better" life led to a demand for convenient, affordable, and tasty food options. The marketing strategies employed by companies such as McDonald's and Coca-Cola further contributed to the widespread consumption of these products, which became an integral part of modern-day lifestyles.

In conclusion, the story of wonder foods is a complex and multifaceted one. While these products promised wondrous solutions for both individual and social ills, they were also driven by the powerful logic of exploitation and economization. The creation of these products shaped modern food regimes and influenced our collective understanding of food, but they also perpetuated exclusionary views and contributed to health problems. It is essential to reflect on the past and learn from our mistakes to create a more sustainable and equitable food system that promotes health, nutrition, and social justice for all.

Weight: 544g
Dimension: 229 x 152 x 23 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9780520390386