Modernizing Costume Design, 1820-1920

Annie Holt's book Modernizing Costume Design argues that costumes are an integral part of the dramaturgy and that they became a more specific semiotic task in the period 1820-1920, shifting in status from craft to art.

Format: Hardback
Length: 160 pages
Publication date: 15 October 2020
Publisher: Taylor & Francis Ltd

Annie Holt delves into the historical origins of contemporary Euro-American practices in costume design, where costumes become an integral part of the theatrical narrative rather than a mere reflection of an individual performer's taste or social status. During the period spanning 1820 to 1920, she argues, clothing and costume functions underwent a significant divergence as part of the broader project of modernism across various artistic and cultural domains. Onstage attire assumed a more specialized semiotic role, serving as a novel channel for the exchange of information between the performer, the literary text, and the audience.

Modernizing Costume Design explores the profound contributions of five distinct artistic disciplines – directors, performers, writers, couturiers, and painters – to the development of this innovative model of costume design. Holt meticulously demonstrates how, by 1920, costume design had achieved a significant elevation in status, transitioning from a craft to an art form.

This transformative shift in the perception and appreciation of costume design was driven by a multitude of factors. Directors sought to enhance the visual impact and emotional resonance of performances by incorporating meticulously crafted costumes that reflected the characters, settings, and themes of the plays. Performers, recognizing the power of costume to convey character and emotion, collaborated closely with designers to create costumes that not only enhanced their performances but also contributed to the overall narrative. Writers, recognizing the potential of costume to enrich the literary text, incorporated detailed descriptions and symbolism into their works, urging the designers to create costumes that mirrored these literary elements.

Couturiers, renowned for their craftsmanship and attention to detail, played a pivotal role in shaping the aesthetic of costume design. They experimented with new materials, techniques, and styles, pushing the boundaries of what was possible in theatrical costume design. Painters, with their keen visual sensibilities and ability to capture the essence of a character or scene, collaborated with designers to create stunning visual compositions that enhanced the overall theatrical experience.

Through her comprehensive analysis, Annie Holt sheds light on the intricate interplay between costume design, performance, literature, and visual art, demonstrating how these disciplines converged to shape the modern theatrical landscape. Modernizing Costume Design serves as a valuable resource for scholars, artists, and enthusiasts alike, offering a deeper understanding of the historical roots.

Weight: 396g
Dimension: 162 x 240 x 16 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9780367150631