Modernizing Costume Design, 1820-1920

Annie Holt's book Modernizing Costume Design argues that costumes are an integral part of the dramaturgy and that they became a more specific semiotic task in the period 1820-1920, shifting in status from craft to art.

Format: Paperback / softback
Length: 168 pages
Publication date: 29 April 2022
Publisher: Taylor & Francis Ltd

Annie Holt delves into the historical origins of contemporary Euro-American practices in costume design, where costumes become an integral part of the theatrical narrative rather than a mere reflection of an individual performer's taste or social status. During the period spanning 1820 to 1920, she argues, clothing and costume functions underwent a significant divergence as part of the broader project of modernism across various artistic and cultural domains. Onstage attire assumed a more specialized semiotic role, serving as a novel channel for the exchange of information between the performer, the literary text, and the audience.

Modernizing Costume Design explores the profound contributions of five distinct artistic disciplines – directors, performers, writers, couturiers, and painters – to the development of this innovative model of costume design. Holt meticulously demonstrates how, by 1920, costume design had achieved a significant elevation in status, transitioning from a craft to a revered art form.

This transformative shift in the perception and appreciation of costume design was driven by a multitude of factors. Directors sought to enhance the visual impact and emotional resonance of performances by incorporating meticulously crafted costumes that reflected the characters, settings, and themes of the plays. Performers, recognizing the power of costume to convey character and enhance their performances, collaborated closely with designers to create garments that not only fit seamlessly but also contributed to the overall narrative. Writers, too, played a crucial role in shaping costume design, as they crafted vivid descriptions of characters' attire that served as a visual blueprint for the designers.

Furthermore, couturiers and painters embraced the opportunity to contribute to costume design, bringing their unique perspectives and artistic styles to the forefront. They worked closely with directors and performers to create visually stunning costumes that not only enhanced the visual appeal of the plays but also reflected the period's cultural and social trends.

Through her comprehensive analysis, Annie Holt sheds light on the intricate interplay between costume design, theatrical production, and the broader cultural context of the time. Modernizing Costume Design serves as a valuable resource for scholars, performers, and designers alike, offering a deeper understanding of the historical roots.

Weight: 308g
Dimension: 234 x 156 (mm)
ISBN-13: 9780367561161